This
epoxy manual
is relatively brief and we will try to
explain in simple terminology the more basic procedures
of epoxy gluing, coating and
fiberglassing. There are
many fine, readily available publications on the market that
explain a multitude of advanced techniques using epoxy if
this manual does not address your questions. Study the
work of at least two authors, for each has his own methods.
Some authors may have an affiliation with a certain brand
of epoxy, but we can assure you that as a general purpose
marine epoxy, ours is second to none. We base this
statement on published manufacturers data, our
experience and feedback from the many repeat
customers that call us daily.
Please read this manual carefully and always practice
proven techniques. Because epoxy has so much strength,
the difference between a good and a bad job may not
always be easily recognized. If failure happens, it will come
at the worst possible time. The epoxy will be blamed, when
the real problem lies in the user not applying the proper
mixing or application procedures. If you have a problem, or
don't understand something in this manual,
don't hesitate to give us a call.
THE MANY USES OF EPOXY
Epoxy is not just for boats, but is also excellent for crafts,
woodworking, car body repair and hundreds of other
home and industrial uses. With epoxy, even a crude patch-
up repair can often be stronger than the original design.
Though most of our customers are using epoxy in the
construction and repair of boats, it also can be an
excellent adhesive and filler that bonds well with metals,
concrete and some plastics.
The production fiberglass boats of today are usually
constructed with the cheaper polyester type resin.
Polyester resin is used because of its low cost and quicker
cure time. Its shorter shelf life is not a problem for large
volume users. Epoxy resin and hardener on the other hand
has an indefinite shelf life, is much stronger, more flexible
and is much more waterproof. Epoxy resin products not
only have a greater bonding strength, but also will bond to
a greater number of different materials, including cured
polyester resins. It’s for these reasons epoxy is used for
so many boat repairs.
A FEW FACTS ABOUT EPOXY PRODUCTS
We have tried many of the epoxy products that you see in
your local marine and hardware stores, from thick pastes to
thin penetrating epoxies. I find, for the most part, they are
of high quality and do the job for which they were
intended. The problem is that they can be quite exorbitant
in cost. We have found that for most boat and shop
applications you can custom make your own epoxy
products. Take our low viscosity epoxy and mix with one or
more of our fillers and you can have an epoxy product
tailored to your specific needs.
WHAT IS OUR RAKA EPOXY SYSTEM?
We have several different epoxies with a variety of mixing
ratios and curing times. We purchase the basic epoxy
resins and hardeners in bulk from different manufactures
and then blend them to get a finished Raka Epoxy. One
way, Raka Epoxies are different from many industrial
epoxies is that we mix in different and expensive additives
that help with better flow and air release. Especially in thin
coats, you will notice less pin holing and cratering. The
products we ship to our customers with our Raka name will
be easy to use and give consistent performance. We can
offer lower prices because we don't have distributors and
dealers to support so we are free to sell directly to the
customer.
BASIC TECHNICAL INFORMATION
Our main epoxy resin 127 is a low viscosity [thin] liquid. It
is basically thick standard grade resin that has been
thinned with special additives and reactive diluents. When
mixed with its companion hardeners [activator], it will cure
to a very tough waterproof plastic. We have several
hardeners with different mix ratios and curing times. Raka
mix ratios are by volume and not by weight. Please note
that our epoxy resins and hardeners have no evaporating
solvents, so you will get very little shrinkage compared to
polyester resins and some solvent loaded epoxies. Some
people prefer a one to one mix ratio because of the
simplicity of mixing,
Our Table Top System mixes together at one part resin to
one part hardener, It is designed primarily to be used as a
thick coating epoxy for tabletops, bars and crafts. It is a
very clear non blushing epoxy system with a forgiving mix
ratio that allows up to 20% off ratio mixing to get harder of
softer cures. The high viscosity of Table Top also makes it
and excellent general purpose gluing and repair epoxy.
Table Top epoxy tends to be more flexible and has
somewhat less strength. Pot life is approximately 40
minutes.
The hardener 631, is a medium fast curing agent that can
be mixed at a ratio of five parts resin to one part hardener.
631 gives the most strength and heat resistance, but you
have to give more care to the critical mix ratio and is
subject to more blushing. 631 is not recommended for
clear coating.
Our best selling hardeners are the 610 which is very fast
curing and the 606 which is slow curing. They are mixed at
a ratio of two parts resin to one part hardener. The two to
one ratio epoxies are probably the most popular because
they give a good compromise in ease of use, are low
blushing and have good overall physical properties.
I’ll give a brief description of our two to one epoxies
because these are what our customers most often request.
Depending on the job requirements, you can choose a fast
or slow hardener or a combination at no extra cost. At 77
degrees [F.] the pot life (using 3 mixed ounces) of the fast
hardener-resin mix is about 8 minutes. Three ounces of
slow hardener would give you about 25 minutes of working
time. A mixture using only fast hardener 610, can be used
down to 50 degrees F and suing only slow hardener 606,
should no be used below 60 degrees. A useful feature of
the two hardeners is their ability to be blended together to
customize a cure time for your particular requirements. We
recommend when working under 70 degrees to use a
blend of hardeners if you want a working cure within 24
hours. The majority of our customers divide their
purchase of hardeners into equal amounts of slow and fast.
When epoxy systems are described scientifically you will
hear frequently used terms such as hardness, flexibility,
impact strength, resiliency and modulus, etc. These are
measurements of physical properties. You must be aware
that you can't have all the best properties in any single
epoxy. A good characteristic in one area is likely to give
you a poorer showing in some other area. When we
selected our Raka system epoxies, the prime
considerations were to get good general purpose boat
building and woodworking characteristics.
One of the outstanding qualities of our epoxy is that the
mixed resin and hardener has a lower viscosity than some
other epoxy systems. This allows deeper penetration into
the wood and very thorough saturation when wetting out
fiberglass cloth. Bubbles that are introduced when mixing
dissipate very well to give you a smoother unblemished
coating. A thinner mix also allows easier mixing and a
higher loading of the many fillers that are available. An
example would be loading your epoxy with a higher
proportion of micro balloons to achieve easier sanding of
the cured epoxy.
SAFETY
Needless to say, epoxy should be stored in a safe manner,
so that anyone, especially children cannot ingest it or get it
on their skin. Most people, even those who frequently
work with epoxy, do not have any health problems
associated with epoxy use. Hardeners are generally more
caustic than the resins. If splashed in the eyes, wash out
with warm water for several minutes and see a physician.
Some users can, over time, develop some skin sensitivity.
This is basically an allergic reaction, so stay away from
epoxy for awhile. It's recommended to use eye and skin
protection at all times when handling epoxy. Do not use
chemical solvents to remove epoxy from your skin. Use a
waterless hand cleaner. Uncured epoxy resin and
hardener is considered a toxic substance, and must be
disposed of in an approved manner. Epoxy resin and
hardener have a very low flammability, but keep in mind
that many of the thinning and cleanup solvents such as
acetone are flammable and explosive. Keep your mind on
the job. See a physician if any health problems develop.
MIXING
The different Raka epoxy resins and their companion
hardeners are engineered to be mixed in a precise way
using a certain volume or weight of resin for each volume
or weight of hardener. Some of our manufacturer’s
specifications give the mixing ratios by weight and some
by volume. We feel that mixing by volume is simpler and
the mixing instructions on our labels specify using volume
measurements. In some cases we round off the exact
scientific mix ratio to avoid confusion. Correct mixing
volumes can be obtained by the use of measuring cups or
by the use of our pumps. Before starting any project, check
the pumps for metering accuracy and also check your
measuring cups as many cheap cups and pots have
inaccurate marks.
In a clean pot, mix thoroughly in a non beating motion and
not too fast as you will introduce air bubbles. Make sure
that the liquid that slops up on the side of your bowl and
on your mixing tool gets mixed also. Ideally you will pour
the mixed epoxy from the first pot into another container
and mix again for the most consistent mixing of all the
hardener and resin. This may be extreme and too time
consuming for most people but will insure a more
consistent mix. If you plan to add any fillers, do so only
after completing your initial mixing. Mixed epoxy that is in a
mass can heat up and become unworkable very fast.
Experienced users work with small batches so there is less
waste. It is important to remember that epoxy applied in a
layer thicker than 1/8 inch may produce enough heat to
damage the substrate or cause the epoxy to foam (
especially of concern when using fast hardener under
warm conditions). Immediately after mixing (especially
when using the fast hardener), spread the epoxy out on a
flat surface in a larger container (a plastic plate works
fine). In some cases, if you want a faster set up and cure
time it is better to leave the mixed epoxy in its pot for a few
minutes so it will get a chance to heat up. The epoxy
curing process depends on the heat from it's own reaction
and the ambient temperature. You will have to experiment
to understand each epoxies properties.
I want to emphasize the importance of proper mixing.
Epoxies strength and desirable properties come from the
complete mating of the resin and hardener molecules in
the correct ratio. Too little hardener produces brittleness,
and too much hardener makes your epoxy softer with the
accompanying loss of strength. If you make an error, you're
safer to use a little less hardener, than too much. Generally
speaking you can have a 20% error tolerance on the minus
hardener side and 10% on the plus side and still get an
acceptable cure. Regardless, your cure will have less
strength than its ultimate potential!
FILLERS
With the proper selection of fillers and the basic resin-
hardener mix, you can create a dozen products that you
would pay dearly for in your local marine store. Just five of
the more common fillers will be explained here.
(1) Silica: It's sold under a variety of names and product
codes (fumed silica, aerosol, cabosil, etc). For general
purpose use, silica is an economical and widely used filler.
Though any filler can thicken a liquid, silica has the unique
properties of being very smooth spreading, strong and
thixotropic (non-sagging). Thixotropic qualities are
especially helpful in allowing your fairing paste to hold its
shape, and preventing run-off on vertical and overhead
work. According to the amount added, you can achieve a
viscosity from thin ketchup to peanut butter. It can be used
for gluing, laminating and making a very smooth fairing
compound. Silica is also very useful for making fillets that
are useful in structural and cosmetic applications. Fillets
are probably most commonly used to fill in sharp corners
between two glued pieces. Strength increases because
your glued surfaces are spread over a larger area. Silica
sands very hard, so smooth it and clean up well before the
mixture cures.
(2) Micro balloons: Tiny glass spheres used to thicken
epoxy and make an easily sanded fairing putty. Though not
as strong as silica, it is much easier to sand. It's usually
wise to add some silica. It makes your putty easier to
spread and helps it hold its shape once applied to your
project.
(3) Milled glass fibers: Finely ground glass fibers that
are added to epoxy to thicken and add high strength.
Adding silica also improves the properties of the mixture.
(4) Chopped Glass Strand: One quarter inch
chopped course fiberglass strand that makes a very rough
filler for exceptional strength and large gap filling.
(5) Wood Flour: Makes a good wood toned non
sagging putty for fillets and gluing,
EPOXY THINNING AND CLEAN-UP SOLVENTS
Acetone, lacquer thinner, and denatured alcohol are three
common economical solvents that work well with epoxy.
Denatured alcohol doesn't cut the epoxy quite as well as
acetone, but is much safer if skin contact occurs. Generally
it's not recommended to thin your epoxy with non-reactive
diluents because you will lose strength, have less water
resistance and will get epoxy shrinkage. The curing
process may also be affected. If you must add a local shop
solvent, then denatured alcohol is a good choice (no more
than 5%). They evaporate slower out of the cure than other
solvents like acetone and work well for may have some
saturated rotten wood. The best way to thin epoxy without
losing strength is to moderately heat the unmixed resin
and hardener. Warm epoxy generally gives better results
and if its possible try to heat the area to which you are
applying the epoxy.
GLUING
Because of Epoxies strength and tremendous adhesive
power, users will often do quick and sloppy work and
maybe get away with it. I'll explain the correct method; if
you want to leave out some recommended steps, it’s your
project. The surface quality of your job may look fine, but
the ultimate bonding strength will not always be
immediately apparent. Murphy's law is ever present.
1. The surface to be bonded must be clean, dry and
free of contaminants.
2. Sand the surface with medium sandpaper to provide
tooth for the epoxy to grab on to.
3. Brush your mixed epoxy onto the bonding
surfaces. If you have time, allow it to soak in for a few
minutes and recoat.
4. Add your filler to the leftover mixed resin in your pot.
Silica is a good choice. Mix very thoroughly, making sure
all the stuck together balls of silica are completely
broken up. The past does not have to be very thick.
Apply the paste to your two pre-coated bonding surfaces.
When the two bonding pieces are pressed together the
paste just needs to be able to squish around and fill all the
voids. Adding too much filler may make the paste dry with
less sticking ability and less flexibility. If you try to glue
using only unthickened resin, it could all soak into the
wood or sun off, leaving a dry bong with a possible later
failure.
5. Very lightly press the parts to be bonded together, and
clamp loosely. It's to the epoxy's advantage not to all
pressed out of the bond.
6. Cleanup or use the epoxy squeezed out of the bond.
Remember, how you clean yup and do your final shaping
will save you a lot of sanding later.
7. When the curing epoxy can't be dented with your
thumbnail you may start to sand. Please be aware that the
final cure may only be 70% complete at this stage.
8. Be careful of the type of wood your are gluing as some
hardwoods that are dense or oily may require special
preparation. A clean surface, very course sanding and
having the epoxy warm or as thin as possible may be
required. Test and experiment before committing to a
large project.
COATING
Epoxy coating wood prevents water penetration. Moisture
soaking into wood causes serious long term problems. Rot,
swelling, weakening and de-lamination all can occur. The
wetter the wood becomes, the less strength it has and the
heavier it will be. Some boat builders coat their vessels
with epoxy only on the outside. With the economy of Raka
Epoxy, there isn't any reason not to fully seal every wood
piece used in the construction of your new vessel. The
value of your vessel will increase and you'll save yourself a
lot of worry and eventual repair work.
Epoxy coating and fiberglassing on the outside has
rescued many older wooden boats. It's probably not
advisable to try to saturate and coat the inside of a larger
older vessel. Its difficult to get complete coverage and you
may be just providing a coating to trap water inside the
wood. Epoxy on the outside and coating liberally with a
good copper based wood preservative on the inside is our
recommendation for older boats. Wood preservatives can
cause staining or other coating problems if you try to cover
it with paint or epoxy.
COATING METHOD
Some builders prefer to coat all pieces individually before
building the project. It will be much easier to have access
to all the edges and sides. A flat wood surface will absorb
epoxy much better without leaving drips and runs. This
method requires more work and may make it more difficult
to bend and fit your pieces together. It may not be
advisable for cheap and quick projects. Wood has air in
its pores. If you epoxy the wood early in the day as the
temperatures are rising, the expanding air in the wood can
force bubbles in your coating. The best time to coat is
when temperatures are dropping, or after you artificially
heat the wood and it starts to cool, causing the epoxy to be
sucked in the pores. Raka epoxy has low viscosity and
resists bubble formation, but warming the epoxy will thin it
even more for better penetration and dissipation of
bubbles. Most of your bubbles are introduced in the mixing
process so high speed electric mixers are not advisable.
One way to pop the bubbles that form is to run a blowtorch
back and forth a few inches above the epoxy surface.
Some builders initially coat all their wood pieces with one
or two coats. They later add extra coats when fiberglassing
or doing finishing construction. Wood coming into
continuous contact with the water such as that below the
water line needs a minimum of five coats to resist water
penetration. The following example lists the steps for
coating a sheet of plywood.
(1) Lay the plywood on sawhorses. Make sure the plywood
and sawhorses are clean, dry and free of dirt or grease. If
contaminated, use the proper solvent to get it clean. Dry
the wood before proceeding.
(2) Give the wood a light sanding with medium grit
sandpaper. Clean the dust off with a brush. Be aware that
pressurized air and air tools can blow oil and water on to
the surface that you’re trying to keep clean.
(3) Pour the resin-hardener mixture in S-shaped trails
across the surface of the plywood. Using a brush or a foam
roller spread the epoxy in an even thin coating across the
surface. Especially for the first coat, use lots of brush
strokes to get the epoxy worked into the surface. Make
sure any surface cracks and defects get well saturated. Do
the plywood edges at the same time. End grain will absorb
lots of epoxy so be prepared to make repeated passes.
(4) Immediately after coating the top surface and edges,
add some silica to your left over mixture to make a fairing
putty. This is the time to fix any voids and defects.
Depending on the grade of plywood, including the so-
called marine plywood, there is always some voids in the
edges and surfaces. Using your fairing putty, fill these in
with a putty knife. Make your fairing job as smooth as
possible, you'll appreciate less sanding later.
(5) There are some variables as to when to apply a second
coating. To prevent dripping and runoff, don't re-coat until
the epoxy has started to set, or has soaked well into the
wood. If you have the time, it's probably to your advantage
to use the slow hardener. The epoxy will have more time to
penetrate before it sets up. Generally speaking, for up to
twenty four hours you can re-coat without sanding and still
get a good chemical bond. The air temperature, hardener
speed and possible blushing will of course have to be
considered in the curing and re-coating process. Epoxy
blush on a cured epoxy surface must be washed off before
re-coating.
(6) When the plywood surface has partially hardened, turn
the plywood over and finish the uncoated side by
repeating all of the above steps. It's a good idea to give
the edges another coat also.
FIBERGLASSING
In the past, before the marvelous properties of epoxy were
realized, people
fiberglassed wood with polyester resin.
Polyester resin has much less waterproofing and adhesive
qualities than epoxy. Water will eventually find its way
between the fiberglass and wood and start to creep. De-
bonding of the fiberglass can occur above the waterline
and most certainly below the waterline. This is not just
theory. Most of your older production built yachts that
have
fibreglassed plywood decks have de-bonding
problems. The following is a very basic and brief
explanation of fiberglassing. If you are inexperienced and
planning a big job, definitely research more detailed
information on the many methods and types of materials in
use today. In our example we'll use the sheet of plywood
that we previously epoxy coated. Remember, you will get a
better saturation of your fiberglass, and better bonding, if
you do your fiberglassing on previously epoxy coated
wood. You can fiberglass on raw wood, but there is the
danger of your wood or fiberglass not getting properly
saturated. Fiberglass comes in various weights and widths.
Generally when fiberglassing the hull and deck of a
wooden boat, builders use one or two layers of light 6 to 10
oz. cloth. It is common to use one layer above the waterline
and two below. In some cases, heavier cloth or a strong
material such as a biaxial is used in structural joints and
corners.
Be aware that some fiberglass mat and other fiber
materials should not be used with epoxy because it may
have an incompatible chemical binder that was designed
only for the polyester type resins. All the fiberglass and
other boat cloths we sell at Raka Marine are both epoxy
and polyester compatible. When fiberglassing, remember
that most wooden boats designs get their strength from
the wood. Epoxy and wood have different strength
characteristics. Usually a plywood boat has a light layer of
fiberglass applied to the surface for water and abrasion
resistance only. Too heavy a fiberglass covering will just
increase weight and expense. This advice of course is
general and a designers specifications should always be
followed, especially when choosing materials for
reinforcing things such as in seams and bulkheads.
METHOD
(1) Lay your plywood on your sawhorses. When possible try
to have your work as flat as possible. Wash off any blush
that may have formed with soapy water. In the case of
grease or other contamination, use a proper shop solvent
(make sure the solvent is cleaned off and is not something
that increases contamination). Take the time to get a clean
surface.
(2) With medium sandpaper, sand smooth all ridges and
runs that may have developed during the previous epoxy
coating. The sanding of course, is always necessary to get
a mechanical bond on fully cured epoxy. You need a rough
tooth for the next coating to have something to attach to.
(3) Lay the full width of your cloth on one end of the
plywood with a little overlap on the edges.
(4)If you're inexperienced, be aware of your mixed Epoxies
pot life, and use smaller batches until you get the hang of
it. Starting at one end, do one section of fiberglass at a
time, pouring the entire pot in an S- shaped pattern over
this section. Remember, once spread out, you'll have more
working time before the epoxy sets up. Using a squeegee
(or a special fiberglass roller) gently massage the epoxy
into the weave until completely saturated. Once completely
wet out, you can put more pressure on the squeegee and
force the cloth tightly to the wood. The weave pattern
should be showing as you drag the excess epoxy to the
next area. This exposed weave will be filled in with later
coats.
(5) When the entire piece of cloth has been finished, lay
down the next piece, preferably overlapping by about two
inches. Overlapping gives strength and any ridge mark can
be filled in or sanded down later. Continue with the same
procedures until finished.
(6) After a few hours the epoxy starts to firm up, you can
now take a sharp knife and trim the fiberglass off the
edges very easily.
(7) The fiberglass weave can be filled in smoothly by two
methods: Mixing some silica in your epoxy and using the
squeegee to smooth the thickened mixture across the
surface and or building up your coating thickness with
successive thin coats of epoxy. Thin coats make for a
smoother job and avoids sags and runs when you have
sloping or vertical surfaces. If good waterproofing is
important, then you should apply several coats.
(8) Any pigments or additives should be stirred into your
mixture for the final coats.
(9) Epoxy is subject to gradual breakdown in sunlight.
Painting is the best protective measure. Varnishing is also
sometimes done. Varnish used on bare wood has normally
a short life in the tropics. When applied over a good base
coat of epoxy, its useful life can be extended by about two
or three times. It should be mentioned that there are a
number of pigments and ultra-violet inhibitors that can be
added to your varnish or epoxy. Note: On vertical and
overhead applications you have to use some ingenuity to
get the fiberglass to stay in place. You may have to first
wet out the surface and let it get tacky. Now you can stick
the fiberglass to it and it should hold in place while you
finish wetting out. The use of tape and copper tacks can
also be used as a holding device.
RESTORING ROTTED WOOD
Wood can be over half rotten and its strength and
appearance can be greatly improved by injecting epoxy
into it. In important structural areas and where safety is
involved, of course always replace with new wood. With
older boats, you may feel it's not worth the time, money or
expertise that's necessary to replace rotted wood. Method:
Sand and clean off the surface area of the rotted wood and
adjoining solid wood areas. Drill 1/4 inch holes deep into
the rotted wood and also into the surrounding solid wood.
Space the holes approximately one half inch apart.
Preferably using a syringe, inject heated thinned epoxy
into the holes. The rotten wood will gradually soak up the
epoxy. Using a slower hardener will allow more penetration
before curing. You will probably have to keep injecting
over a period of time until the wood will absorb no more.
After the epoxy has at least partially cured, make an epoxy
putty and smooth over the holes. After curing, you can
sand and paint. It will be hard, solid and look as good as
new. Remember, this is for non-critical areas as you can
never know how deeply the epoxy has penetrated. There
may still be voids and unsaturated rotten wood.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
(1) The most common mistake is to add extra hardener to
the epoxy mix. This is only for experienced users who in
rare cases want the softer epoxy that they will get as a
result.
(2) Another common problem is contamination. This can
occur on the surface to which the epoxy is applied or it can
occur in an improper or dirty mixing pot. Do not mix in
waxed paper cups or any other container that is not stable
to the heat and chemical reaction of mixed epoxy. Take
extra care that your mixing pot and application surface are
free from water, grease, oils and waxes etc. Consider rain,
dew, dust, insects or other things that can fall into your
curing epoxy. Plan ahead.
(3) Always wash off any epoxy blush that may form before
applying your next coat of epoxy. A cured epoxy surface
needs to be sanded to get a good bond before recoating
or fiberglassing.
(4) Always be aware of the temperature you are working in.
My slow hardener can be very slow in temperatures of less
than 80 F. Mix together a combination of fast and slow
hardeners to suit your conditions. Take into consideration
that it may be warm in the day when you start applying your
epoxy, but at night perhaps it will be exposed to freezing
conditions. Cure speed depends on the hardener type and
ambient temperature!
(5) Periodically check all pumps and mixing containers for
accuracy.
(6) Epoxy has an indefinite shelf life but can crystallize
over time, especially in cooler temperatures. Try to store
your epoxy at room temperatures. Never store it in
freezing temperatures and don’t store it on a cold concrete
floor. Crystallized and freezing exposed epoxy can be
brought back to normal with no loss of properties by
moderately heating and stirring it. Placing your epoxy
containers in a pail of 120 degree water should be
sufficient.
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ORDERING:
Our phone number is 772-489-4070 or fax 772-461-2070.
We accept MasterCard, Visa, Discover and American
Express, check or C.O.D. (All C.O.D. must be paid in
certified check or money order.) Most orders will be
shipped the same day by U.P.S.
Canadian orders can be shipped U.P.S.
If you do not have your own customs broker, U.P.S. will act
as your broker and charge you a fee.
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HAPPY BOAT BUILDING
Please feel free to call us regarding any of our
products.
Please understand that due to the level of email
correspondence received, we are limited in the length of
our responses to approximately 1 or 2 sentences. (Email
can be cumbersome to both accurately comprehend and
subsequently provide an effective response.) However,
please feel free to call me and I will be happy to discuss
your project with you in as much detail as you need.
Larry Steeves
(Ph) 772.489.4070
larry@raka.com
Webmaster
tammy@raka.com
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